Property care, simplified.

1. Mow high, not low

Set your deck to about 3.5"–4" through the summer. Tall grass shades the soil, holds moisture, and chokes out crabgrass before it can take hold. Scalping a lawn is the #1 reason it turns brown and patchy by August.

2. Sharpen your blade

A dull blade tears grass instead of cutting it — that's what causes those white/brown frayed tips a day after mowing. A quick sharpen every 20–25 hours of run time keeps cuts clean and the turf healthy.

3. Alternate your direction

Mowing the same pattern week after week trains the grass to lean and creates ruts. Switch directions each visit — that's also how you get those crisp, alternating stripes.

4. Don't bag the clippings

Mulched clippings return nitrogen and moisture to the soil. Unless the grass is wildly overgrown or wet, leave them down.

5. Mow when it's dry

Wet grass clumps, clogs the deck, and rips out chunks. Wait until the dew burns off — usually mid-morning.

Don't have time to keep up with it? That's literally what we do. Reach out anytime for a free quote on weekly mowing — we'll keep your lawn looking sharp all season.

Mulch — warmer, softer, more upkeep

Mulch insulates plant roots, retains moisture, and breaks down into nutrients over time. Downside: you'll need to top it up every 1–2 years and it can wash out in heavy rain.

Rock — permanent, low-maintenance, sharper look

River rock or lava rock paired with steel edging gives a clean, modern look that holds up for years with almost zero upkeep. Best for foundation beds, drainage strips, and high-traffic edges. The trade-off: higher upfront cost and rock heats up around plant roots in full sun.

The hybrid approach we recommend most often

Mulch around your flower beds and trees (so the soil stays cool and fed), rock against the foundation, fence line, and downspouts (so you never have to re-do those areas).

Not sure which makes sense for your property? Send us a few photos — we'll give you an honest recommendation and a free quote, even if the smarter answer is to do nothing this year.

Step 1 — Check your grading

The ground should slope away from the house at least 6" of drop over the first 10 feet. If it slopes toward the foundation (or even sits flat), water has nowhere to go but down — into your basement.

Step 2 — Extend your downspouts

A downspout that dumps right at the foundation is a slow leak waiting to happen. Extend them 4–6 feet out, into a rock bed or a buried drain line.

Step 3 — French drain along problem walls

For chronic problem areas, a french drain — perforated pipe set in gravel and fabric — carries water away to a safer spot in the yard. We install these often along basement walls and under decks.

Step 4 — Finish with rock, not mulch

Mulch holds moisture against the foundation. River rock with steel edging keeps the area dry, looks clean, and never needs to be re-done.

If you've got a wet spot that won't quit, give us a call. We've done dozens of these around Sioux Falls and can usually fix it in a day.

Sweep polymeric sand into the joints

Joint sand locks pavers together and keeps weeds and ants out. Replace it every few years — sweep it dry into the joints, mist with water, and let it harden.

Seal it every 3–5 years

A breathable paver sealer protects against staining, fading, and freeze-thaw damage. Skip the cheap shiny stuff at the big box stores — it traps moisture and turns white.

Clean stains right away

Grease, leaves, and berries leave permanent marks if you let them sit. A stiff brush + dish soap + water handles most of it. For tougher stains, a paver-specific cleaner works without bleaching.

Watch the edges

Edge restraints are the #1 thing that fails on a DIY patio. If you see pavers shifting along the perimeter, it's an easy fix — but only if you catch it early.

Need a patio installed right the first time, or a tune-up on an existing one? We do both. Reach out anytime for a free quote.

1. Pick up sticks, leaves & debris first

Don't mow over a winter's worth of debris — it'll hide damage and dull your blade. Rake or blow it all out before anything else.

2. Dethatch & aerate if needed

If you've got more than ½" of thatch (that brown layer between green grass and soil), pull it up. Core aeration in early spring opens the soil for water, fertilizer, and seed to actually do their job.

3. Overseed bare spots

Right after aeration is the perfect window — seed falls into the open holes and germinates fast. Water lightly twice a day until you see growth.

4. Fertilize

A slow-release spring fertilizer + pre-emergent stops crabgrass before it starts. Timing matters here — too early and you'll wash it out; too late and you've lost the window.

5. Refresh edging, mulch, and rock beds

Re-cut your bed edges, top off mulch where it's thin, and rake out rock beds. Save this for last so all the lawn work doesn't kick debris back onto fresh beds.

Or skip the whole weekend and let us handle it — we do full spring cleanups across Sioux Falls and surrounding areas. Get a free quote anytime.

Mark your driveway and walkways

Reflective driveway markers (the orange fiberglass kind) keep plows on the pavement and off your lawn. Set them in before the ground freezes.

Trim back low branches

Heavy snow brings branches down on driveways, fences, and cars. A quick fall trim of anything overhanging high-traffic areas saves a midnight chainsaw situation.

Lock in your snow contract early

By the first real snowfall, most reliable contractors are full. Get on a route in October or November — most companies (including us) honor priority for previous customers.

Stock salt or ice melt now

Hardware stores run out the day of the first storm. Keep a 50 lb bag in the garage and you'll never be stuck.

Want us on your driveway this winter? Reach out before the snow flies and we'll lock in your spot on the route.